PUCCI: The Beginning of a New Age

PUCCI: The Beginning of a New Era

Camille Miceli’s first collection for PUCCI marks the dawn of a new era for the Florentine fashion house.

Camille Miceli, the Florentine fashion house Pucci’s newly assigned Artistic Director

The launch of Camille Miceli’s debut as PUCCI’s Artistic Director was far more than just a new collection, it was a rebirth. The brand’s new direction focuses on the ultra-contemporary, both in terms of style and way of life. This vision sees past the restrictiveness of seasonal releases and embraces the ‘see now, buy now’ spirit of monthly drops. Whilst this new ethos is incredibly modern, Miceli has ensured that the house does not lose sight of its history, hence why the first destination of this new journey is Emilio Pucci’s beloved Capri, where the brand’s first boutique opened in 1951.

Titled La Grotta Azzurra’, this release took the form of an entire weekend experience comprised of dinner, a yoga class, a villa party co-hosted with Mytheresa, a gran brunch, and more. Brand ambassadors and contemporary creatives ranging from Vittoria Ceretti to Gunna were in attendance for the festivities on the island.

Miceli at the Capri Casual dinner with Katia Toledano, Nicolas Maury and Imruh Asha

The Pucci yoga class in collaboration with Mytheresa

The spirit of the collection itself completely defies the conventions of the fashion world; the nomadic wardrobe does not confine itself to any one season or destination, allowing it to be mixed and matched as desired. This mix-and-match concept is also embraced in the reworking of PUCCI’s iconic motifs. Typically kaleidoscopic prints such as Geometrico, Girandole, Marmo and more have been reinterpreted via patchworking, as well as experimentation with scale, offering a modern impression on the house’s roots.

The modernisation of the house’s roots can again be seen with its brand-new logo. Inspired by a 1953 ‘Capri Sport’ label retrieved from the archives, the houses new chapter is spearheaded with an intertwining dual fish, shaped as an emblematic P. It features in various forms, as a belt buckle, jewellery, adorning sweatshirts, and more. Drawing on the joie de vivre essence of Capri, the collection offers caftans, kimonos, miniskirts and more, with details of fringes and ribbons giving it a true sense of crafted luxury.

Designed for ‘the timeless simplicity of a fleeting moment’, this is a collection which manages to feel distinctly modern yet unmistakably PUCCI; pieces have graceful curvature, yet transcend the boundaries of gender. The triumph in Miceli’s first collection is its ability to feel simultaneously refreshing and familiar, and its just a taster of what’s to come from the Parisian designers tenure at the historic brand.

Miceli grooving with Gunna at the Bagni di Tiberio luncheon

(left) Tiffany Hsu, Fashion Buying Diector of Mytheresa  (right) Emmanuelle Alt and Carlyne Cerf at the Villa Belsito party


Text: Harvey Byworth-Morgan


The Digital Fashion Revolution

The Digital Fashion Revolution

The luxury upcycling brand Rave Review transports their craft to the metaverse.


Rave Review, the female-led, high-end upcycling brand from Stockholm have officially entered the NFT sphere with their brand-new collection Cryptopanties. The set of one-off collectible items has been released on the carbon-neutral blockchain Solana.

The Swedish fashion house, born in 2017, has rapidly emerged as one of the leading upcycling brands in the luxury market. In the physical world, they have made a name for themselves utilising pre-owned fabrics to produce bespoke high-end items with a rebellious spirit. Now they are bringing this very concept to the metaverse, keeping their core values of subverting norms and upcycling at the heart of the project.

One of the key goals of the campaign within the metaverse, an emerging digital space that has already become male-dominated. In order to achieve this, not only have Rave Review collaborated with several female led groups such as RedDAO, Boys Club and Women’s Tribe, but they have also partnered the project with leading female personalities like Arvida Byström and Tove Styrke. On top of this, each set of panties has been named after trailblazing women in the creative industries, such as Frida Kahlo, Madonna and Erykah Badu.

Not only acting as futuristic pieces of art, the Cryptopanties NFTs will provide their holders with a variety of perks, in both the digital and physical worlds. Via the community platform WERZ, the holders have access to a community vast in gender, interests, and expressions. Furthermore, ownership of the NFTs also allows early access to drops, collaborations, and exclusive events. These groundbreaking steps taken by the ever innovative Rave Review offer us a progressive picture of what the future holds in the metaverse.


Words: Harvey Byworth-Morgan


Summer Spirit in St. Tropez

Summer Spirit in St. Tropez


The Plein Soleil capsule by Hedi Slimane for CELINE.

As the latest part of the Baie des Anges collection, the brand-new Plein Soleil capsule by CELINE blesses us with a glimmer of St. Tropez spirit for the summer months ahead. The assortment of ready-to-wear items and accessories will be available in selected CELINE stores from April 29th, 2022.

The collection channels the famed understated elegance that both CELINE and the South of France are known for. With pastel tones and floral patterns present throughout, the capsule transports us to a sun-kissed coastline, with striped beach towels and swimwear as accompaniments. The beach-chic feel of the collection is complemented with a craftwork twist, as handknitted crochet dresses and tops are included. To top off the seaside experience, the capsule offers special CELINE editions of the beloved beach games Pétanque and Finnish Keels and even includes a hammock.

As the sun sets over the Mediterranean, the CELINE woman slips out of her beachwear and into a luxurious evening collection. Crafted with the fine materials of jacquard and lamé printed silk, the capsule offers a Bain de Soleil dress, a lingerie top and more for those unforgettable St. Tropez summer nights.

The silhouette also enjoys a plethora of bags, including the house’s classic Panier in various colourways, as well as the Cabas Thais and a calfskin picnic basket. Canvas sneakers, gladiator sandals and acetate sunglasses complete the collection. Modelled by CELINE brand ambassador Suzanne Lindon, the Plein Soleil capsule is the latest in a long line of successes, crafted with the personal touch of Hedi Slimane, the brand’s enigmatic creative director. Available in selected stores from April 29th, CELINE offers you a chance to dress à la mode with this quintessentially French collection – allons à la plage!


Text: Harvey Byworth-Morgan


Paradise in Technicolour

Paradise in Technicolour

The resort capsule by NENSI DOJAKA for Mytheresa.


Nensi Dojaka, winner of the prestigious LVMH Prize, has collaborated with the leading luxury online retailer Mytheresa for an exclusive Resort capsule collection, which will be available globally on April 20th, 2022.

 

Since completing the Central Saint Martin’s MA course in 2019, Dojaka has been widely regarded as one of the hottest young talents in the fashion world. She has already crafted a distinctly unique aesthetic, incorporating asymmetry, lingerie-style, and intentionally visible seams and straps. This trademark look of sophistication with a measure of tasteful eroticism has been reimagined for the Mytheresa collection: whilst retaining the beautiful craftwork that has made Dojaka an international star, the Resort collection has introduced a splash of colour into the mix. With shades of orange, turquoise and pink entering the fray, the collection has a distinctly summery feel. This tropical spirit can be seen too in the inclusion of figure-hugging party dresses 90s cut-outs, wrap skirts and swimsuits among the collection’s 60 ready-to-wear pieces. As always with Dojaka’s work, the beauty in the collection is its effortless harmony between truly innovative designs and genuine wearability.

This venture marks the next exciting step in Albanian-born Dojaka’s remarkable ascendancy; having produced three collections with the Fashion East collective, she was invited to be NEWGEN recipient by the British Fashion Council for her Fall 2022 collection, which received glowing reviews. Now this latest collaboration enables Dojaka to partner herself with one of the world’s most prestigious luxury e-commerce platforms.

 

As well as garnering acclaim from several of the fashion’s most revered institutions, Dojaka’s collections have also won the affection of various global stars, with Camille Charriere and Jourdan Dunn recently donning her designs, and Zendaya even having her own bespoke dress made. The launch of the collaborative release will come within a dedicated editorial story directed by Julian Paul, Chief Creative Officer of Mytheresa, shot by Jana Geberding. Available globally on April 20th.


Text: Harvey Byworth-Morgan


BULGARI Serpenti Through the Eyes of CASABLANCA

Imagine a fine combination of comfort leisurewear and luxury craftsmanship. The idea sounds contradictive, but Bulgari made it happen together with the burgeoning French fashion house Casablanca, under their latest project “Serpenti Through the Eyes of Casablanca”.

 

As a top-notch luxury brand, Bulgari has always been active on contributing to societal goals by nurturing the youth. The financial aids to the restoration of Spanish Steps and the ongoing restoration project in Area Sacra di Largo Argentina are just the tip of the iceberg. In 2017, Bulgari launched the “Serpenti Through the Eyes of ”, a project in collaboration with talented young designers on the reinterpretation of the fashion house’s iconic Serpenti collection. Through their daring vision, the collection is imbued with vibrant and sprightly energy. Previous collaboration include London-based “Queen of Print” Mary Katrantzou and high-fashion streetwear label Ambush. This year, Bulgari invites us to see Serpenti through the eyes of Charaf Tajer – the creative director of Casablanca.

Bringing together its contemporary soul by mixing the essence of carefree and decadent après-sport style and luxurious touch into the Mediterranean aesthetics, Casablanca’s exclusive interpretation of Serpenti, Bulgari’s legendary icon, is all about playfulness and elegance. Divided into two different moods, the first part of the “Serpenti Through the Eyes of Casablanca” capsule collection is all about the après-sport chill. Inspired by the classic tennis look, Casablanca turns the bags into a white and green contrast. Finished with perforated leather and a gold-plated wooden handle, the design alludes to the equipment, venue, colors, details, outfits and elegant aesthetics of the universe of tennis.

 

Incorporating Bulgari’s Roman heritage with Casablanca’s Moroccan roots, the aesthetics from two opposite shores of the Mediterranean blends harmoniously in this collection, infusing a breath of fresh air hailing from the Mediterranean Sea to the fashion world.


Text: Yves Tsou


Into the Wild

Standing on the shore, Matthew Brookes’ feet sink lightly in the sand as the tension in his body grows. Not of anxiety, but of excitement. He gazes at the sea to witness surfers conquer the raging waves of the water, their arms raised as they balance themselves on their surfboard. Brookes, not content to only be an observer, raises the camera in his hands, captures the splash of the water and the blast the surfers feel, and prints the images in his monograph Into The Wild.

 

For the project, Brookes uncovers the stories of the young surfers pursuing the van lifestyle, following their coast-to-coast affairs with their surfboards and the water. The resulting images punctuate the youthful zest of the surfers for travel, freedom, and dreams, always chasing the best waves while living out of vans. CAP 74024 talks to the New York and Paris-based photographer to discover his self-discovery throughout the project, his journey within a journey.

After reading the brief of the monograph, I wonder how present the surf life is in your life. Have you always wanted to capture this celebration?

 

I grew up in a surf town on the East Coast of South Africa called Durban, and most of the cool kids in my school were surfers, so I guess I had an introduction to surf culture at an early age.

 

When I moved to Venice Beach California I was introduced to a few surfers through common friends, and they were quite open to being photographed. Each surfer introduced me to more surfers and the project grew very fast!

 

So, I know that you followed a group of young surfers from Venice Beach on their adventures up and down the coast. What were you hoping to witness? Could you elaborate more on “adventures up and down the coast?”

 

What I discovered very quickly is that all the surfers I was shooting lived out of their vans. They were literally surf nomads traveling up and down the coast, following the best surf. This lifestyle was really fascinating to me, and I was drawn to their philosophy of life and sense of freedom.

 

I did not have any preconceived expectations when I started photographing the surfers – it was more about shooting everything as it happened, like a surf diary. What surprised me about the surfers I was shooting was how quickly they opened up their world to me and how generous they were with their time. They made me feel very accepted and welcome.

That’s wonderful to hear! A side question if you don’t mind: for some creatives, water has always been their muse, a source of infinite healing and inspiration. Do you have the same affinity towards water? I am curious as I can imagine how it accompanied you throughout your project.

 

I guess I am drawn to water and the sea as I grew up by the ocean. I also spent months traveling up and down the coast of California watching and photographing the surfers in the water, so that felt very meditative and healing.

 

Water to me is linked to emotion in my psyche. I’m very drawn to photographing the emotion in people and the way they express themselves. I’m always trying to look beneath the surface with people. Also, I feel like shooting someone is like surfing – you are constantly navigating the waves of emotion with people until you find the perfect shot.

 

For me, the perfect shot is the one where you look at a portrait of someone and it takes you on a journey or reveals something very intimate or unexpected about the person.

 

Did you ever imagine van culture before your monograph? Did the actual one live up to how you envisioned it?

 

Before this project, I imagined living out of a van more as a form of homelessness or because of financial difficulties, but not as a lifestyle choice. After witnessing what I saw I could imagine many people being drawn to it, either as a travel holiday or more long term. It’s a form of “living the dream” in a way that is more unexpected.

 

Have you always been fascinated with van culture? Have you tried it before, or did you try it for this series?

 

I knew very little about van culture before this project, but now, it’s a dream of mine to buy a van and take a long vacation living out of it and traveling around the US or Europe.

I understand that Zack Raffin did the interviews for the book and to accompany your images, but when you spoke with the surfers, what stories stuck with you?

 

The stories that struck me were the surfer’s philosophy on life. They all had a kind of artistic and creative view of life, quite philosophical and introspective. I loved the way they described surfing and life as a “flow”. It seemed to be a common philosophy with all the surfers that I met: finding balance and flow.

 

The brief mentions that this is “a story of youth choosing to follow their dreams, living out of vans, existing for surfing and travel and freedom, and always chasing the best waves.” Touching on this, have you always chased your dreams? What do you live for today?

 

I’ve always been a big dreamer. I suppose that’s part of being an artist, dreaming big and living in your imagination. I realized at an early age that I was not good at many things, so when I finally discovered photography and that it came naturally to me, I focused everything I had on this newfound passion.

 

Today, I have to admit that I’ve already achieved all the things I wanted to achieve and more in my career as far as which clients or magazines I have worked for. Right now, I’m on a more personal venture of how I would like to communicate with the world and, in some way, inspire young creative people around me to also follow their hearts and creative passions.

 

Continuing the last question, how do you feel about the relationship between travel and freedom? When do you feel your most liberated self?

 

After traveling intensively for so many years for work, I guess I’m a nomad too. I’m used to being on a plane every week, so the feeling of travel and freedom are very linked to my experience. I love the feeling of arriving in a new place and the excitement of not knowing what will happen. In my work, I find that I always feel refreshed and inspired when I discover new places.

 

I feel most liberated when I have a camera in my hand; with nobody behind me telling me what do. That’s why personal projects are so important to me – they are a kind of reset and therapy.

Another side question: I read that you have always been fascinated by the dynamism of the human form in motion. Have you dabbled in any activities concerning movement?

 

Well, my father was a professional football player, and I grew up playing tennis. My whole family was involved in sports in one way or another, so I guess watching bodies and their movement was something that I observed from a very early age.

 

As far as any kind of dance is concerned, I cannot dance at all! Maybe that’s why it fascinates me to watch dance and to photograph it. I’m fascinated by watching people dance, especially contemporary ballet. I have many friends who are ballet dancers, and they are the most hardworking people I know, pushing their bodies to the limit every single day!

 

Your first monograph consists of portraits of the ballet dancers of the Paris Opera. This one focuses on surf life. Are you already planning the next one?

 

I have another project in my back pocket, one that I have started but still need to work on. It’s a very exciting and beautiful subject, but I’m saving the announcement for a later date.


INTO THE WILD
Europe Release Date: March 17, 2022
US Release Date: May 24, 2022 

For more information, please visit Damiani’s website damianieditore.com

Text & Interview by Matthew Burgos

Edit by Yves Tsou


The Obsessed

© Irwin Wong, TheObsessed, gestalten 2022 

© Irwin Wong, TheObsessed, gestalten 2022 

© Irwin Wong, TheObsessed, gestalten 2022 

What we talk about when we talk about Japan? As one of the main cultural output country in today’s world, it isn’t really hard to spot bits of Japanese culture in our quotidian life, whether traditional or modern. While traditional Japanese culture is deemed as profound and sophisticated, Japanese pop culture and its spinoffs are often the most playful, diverse, and probably, ubiquitous ones.

 

Aside from a variety of mainstream pop culture, the subculture that ramifies under also has an impactful presence; amongst them are the anime, manga and games. Often regarded as esoteric from outsiders, the revenue that these “Nijigen” (Two-dimension in Japanese, used to describe the virtual world in anime, manga and games) works generate is substantial. The term Otaku is coined accordingly to describe the die-hard fanatics with interests in anime and manga. Their passion is all-consuming, whether it be cosplay, Lolita, gothic or maid café, and their obsessions towards it is beyond fathomable.

© Irwin Wong, TheObsessed, gestalten 2022 

© Irwin Wong, TheObsessed, gestalten 2022 

Mesmerized by this distinctive social phenomenon, Australian photographer Irwin Wong turned his insightful observation on it into his latest publication. Living in Japan for more than 15 years, Irwin documented these eerie yet intriguing moments through his lens and compiled them to his new book “The Obsessed”. Accompany with on-the-ground interviews and cultural essays, “The Obsessed”, created in collaboration with gestalten, showcases a kaleidoscope of scenes and individuals drawn from Japan’s many countercultural group, pinpointing their place within Japanese society and global popular culture. As a thorough discovery unfolds, Irwin invites us to an in-depth gaze into the essence of these Japanese subcultures, and the lives of people who dedicate their passion and obsession to them.

© Irwin Wong, TheObsessed, gestalten 2022 

© Irwin Wong, TheObsessed, gestalten 2022 

© Irwin Wong, TheObsessed, gestalten 2022 


THE OBSESSED
Europe + UK Publication Date: February 24, 2022
International Publication Date: May 3, 2022 

For more information, please visit gestalten’s website gestalten.com

Text: Yves Tsou


Snow

Snow

collection of winter images by Arturo + Bamboo

Serene, romantic and immaculate, the silence of winter falls from the sky. Along with the snow, it mantles the tranquil villages, the gentle mountain slopes and the withered trees, turning the peaceful ski resort alongs the Alps into a dreamlike magicland. 

 

Mesmerized by the nostalgic and eternal feeling that snow has evoked, photographer duo Arthur Groeneveld and Bamboo Van Kampen, also known as Arturo+Bamboo professionally, have made this feeling tangible.

 

After the successful publications of “Summer Diary”, “Privé” and “Red Moon”, the Dutch photography duo came back with their fourth publication “Snow”. With intention to explore the intimacy and the emotions people have experienced in the Alpine ski resorts, “Snow” is a collection, or rather, an archive of images taken in the past six years that showcases the beauty of landscapes and the timeless pleasures of what winter sports are truly about.

 

People come and go. After the ski season, townships like Zermatt, Gstaad and St, Moritz will go back to their original solitude, waiting for the next winter when the ski lovers will flock. We had a chance to speak with Arturo+Bamboo, having them sharing their intimate stories about winter, their passion for winter sports and their fancy to snow.

How was the project “Snow” born?

 

“Snow” is a continuation of our ongoing research and documentation into dreamlike places and a certain sense of timeless beauty. You can even see our new book as an extension of our previous publication “Summer Dairy”: there are actually great similarities in life by the sea and life in the mountains – both are joyful places where people are again in touch with the power of nature. 

 

What is behind the choice of the location?

 

What attracted us about these legendary villages is their Alpine history, a timeless city where families return for generations and where you can find a cosmopolitan atmosphere. In addition, you feel fascinated by St. Moritz, Chamonix and Cortina thanks to the aura of having hosted the Olympic Games.

 

Other places because of their unique geographical location: Zermatt is located literally in the shadow of the Matterhorn and Courmayeur has a breathtaking view of the highest mountain in Europe: Le Mont Blanc.

From “Summer Diary” to “Prive” then to “Red Moon”, is there any connection between the previous projects and “Snow”?

 

Many! In all of these publications we hope to take the viewer on a certain journey. Somewhere special and in a very intimate way.

From black and white to red, from summery colours to wintery colours, the colours in all of your photo books are different (but all with a soft filter). Is there any meaning behind the colour selection? What are the messages you wish to convey?

 

This softness is key in our body of work as it shows the world in a more gentle way, it is like when you close your eyes a bit and look through your eyelashes so the hard edges of daily life make place for a more dreamy view.

It took you guys 6 years to realize this project, how important has the factor “time” been for this project “Snow”?

 

Time and patience was essential in the process of making this book: it would have never been possible to create SNOW within one winter season. Although we felt something was growing after visiting a couple of those legendary places, we became increasingly interested in really researching and documenting the history, lifestyle and traditions in Switzerland, France, Italy and Austria. Most of the places featured in SNOW are quite close to each other through the atmosphere and landscapes vary a lot.

 

What are your future plans? Could you spill a bit about your next possible publication?

 

We’re always working on new ideas for our next publications – even if we are still in the middle of the current one!

‘’There’s nothing quite like the power of nature shown through snow: it creates this silence, softness but also brings out that playful, childlike side that never fully leaves us as adults.’’

 

– Arturo + Bamboo


Photography by Arturo + Bamboo (@arturobamboo) arturo-bamboo.com

Text & Interview by Daniele Tancredi

Edit by Yves Tsou


Balenciaga Objects: Tiger Sculpture

The Tiger Sculpture

The latest Object signed by Balenciaga


Since the appointment of Demna Gvasalia as creative director in 2015, Balenciaga has continually been challenging the very idea of what it means to be a luxury fashion house. The latest offering from their Balenciaga Objects collection, a handcrafted tiger sculpture, continues to embody this spirit of subversion. During Demna’s tenure, he has embraced the anti-consumerist stance of slow fashion, choosing to release only one haute couture range a year. Thus, as we arduously endure the wait between these collections, the Balenciaga Objects line is a welcome relief, allowing us a glimpse at the wider creative direction of the brand under Demna’s guidance.

 

The man behind the sculpture is post-modern artist Nik Kosmas, whose oeuvre sardonically observes the state of technology and the human experience in the 21st century. Based in China’s mega metropolis Shanghai, Kosmas’ work is a physical, emotional, and spiritual journey inspired by science fiction, sports practice, and psychology. The sculpture itself would not have looked out of place in the brand’s SS22 show, with its sleek all black appearance resembling the ‘Cyber Goth’ aesthetic of that range. Despite the futuristic hybridity of the piece, its handcrafted nature stays true to the roots of the brand. Kosmas’s brass shaping of every aspect from the whiskers to the vertebrae reflects the ethos of bespoke luxury that has been at the heart of the brand since its inception.

 

Launching on November 20th, 2020, Balenciaga Objects is a category of items produced outside of the fashion collections. Having released various items of homeware over the last couple of months, ranging from laser-engraved glassware to reusable porcelain coffee cups, this latest venture represents a stylistic shift to the ornamental. The Objects collection now offers the decorative as well as the functional.

Presented on 38 x 27cm display platforms, there will be 15 numbered editions of the product released worldwide. Each model undergoes a meticulous process of craftsmanship; the individual components are shaped using the ancient technique of lost-wax casting, before being welded coated and glossed by hand.

 

As various fashion houses face accusations of lacking originality or recycling ideas, this release represents the latest in a long line of successes from the brand that just seems to keep getting it right. All that is left to do is to eagerly await whatever the next steps may be in this truly innovative era of the iconic brand’s history.


Text: Harvey Byworth-Morgan


With Love from Russia

Photography & Interview: Vlad Zorin (@vladislavzorin)

Curator: Andrey Lopatin (@streeterror)

Critical Text: Sasha Kazantseva (@zakatalki)

Special thanks to Ksenia Chilingarova (@k_chilingarova)