Givenchy Sfilate: Chronicles of Elegance

Givenchy Sfilate

Chronicles of Elegance

“GIVENCHY SFILATE”, 2023

HUBERT DE GIVENCHY – A/W 1957-58 HAUTE COUTURE

The world of fashion is gearing up to welcome a new chapter of timeless elegance with the release of the book “Givenchy Sfilate”. This extraordinary monograph offers an unprecedented immersion into the haute couture and ready-to-wear collections of the renowned Maison, from its debut in 1952 to the present day.

 

Curated by fashion experts Alexandre Samson and Anders Christian Madsen, the volume opens with a fascinating historical contribution that introduces fashion enthusiasts to the vision of the brand’s founder Hubert de Givenchy, who always asserted that “the shortest path to elegance is simplicity”, and this mantra continues to permeate every page of the book.

JOHN GALLIANO – A/W 1996-97 HAUTE COUTURE

ALEXANDER McQUEEN – S/S 1997 HAUTE COUTURE

Organized chronologically, the 180 collections presented in the book narrate the captivating story of the Maison, ushering in each new era with a brief summary and the biographies of the creatives who shaped Givenchy’s aesthetic. From Hubert de Givenchy’s early steps to the creative direction of talents like John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Julien McDonald, Riccardo Tisci, Clare Waight Keller, to the current vision of Matthew M. Williams, the book offers a timeless journey through seven decades of iconic fashion house.

 

Accompanying Individual collections are some short texts that unveil inspirations, highlights, and details behind each created masterpiece. With over 1200 carefully selected runway photos, readers have the precious opportunity to immerse themselves in the visual mastery that has made Givenchy a benchmark in high fashion. The book also features interviews and quotes from the designers who have shaped the brand over the years. From the words of Hubert de Givenchy, who embodied effortless elegance, to the current philosophy of Matthew M. Williams, seeing fashion as an expression of personality, each creative director has contributed to defining Givenchy’s distinctive identity.

CLARE WAIGHT-KELLER – S/S 2018 HAUTE COUTURE

MATTHEW M. WILLIAMS – A/W 2021 READY-TO-WEAR

“Givenchy Sfilate” is not just a monograph; it is an opportunity to explore the creative evolution of the Maison and the artists who have guided it through successes, challenges, and innovations. As Alexandre Samson emphasizes, the book attests to an extraordinary level of inventiveness and luxury, maintaining a unique balance between commercial proposals and spectacularism.

 

In a digital age where fashion evolves rapidly, “Givenchy Sfilate” stands as a tangible testament to the artistic mastery that has withstood the test of time. This book is not only a tribute to past collections, but also an inspiration for future generations – an authentic bible for fashion enthusiasts who wish to trace the trajectories of an icon that has defied time. With the heart of Givenchy beating in tune with the times, this book, available from the 17th November, promises to be an indulgent read for all those who appreciate the timeless art and elegance of fashion.


Text: Daniele Tancredi


Where Rebellion Meets Luxury

Where Rebellion

Meets Luxury

Zadig & Voltaire Unveils its Lifestyle Capsule Collection Voltaire Vice

As an avid advocator of “effortless luxury”, Paris-based fashion house Zadig & Voltaire champions achievable fashion inspiration in chic style. Since its inception, the brand rejects the elitist attitude and distant posture prevalent in the contemporary fashion world, establishing a proximity with its customers through rebellious and avant-garde design.

 

Not promoting their core value only in the realm of fashion, Zadig & Voltaire once again pushes the boundaries and extends its tentacles to the lifestyle sector. With its latest lifestyle capsule collection: Voltaire Vice, the brand turns everyday objects into desirable fashion accessories. The collection represents a distinctive uniqueness, shedding new lights on how we perceive these quotidian objects: Whether superficially practical or addictively superfluous, they are all reinterpreting art and style in their own way.

Celebrating an unconventional rebellion against the ordinary, the capsule collection draws inspiration from the free-spirited ethos of the label – a testament to the raw, unapologetic energy, which has defined Zadig & Voltaire since its foundation. Choosing black and gold as key tone, the collection blends the rock ‘n’ roll rebellion and understated luxury perfectly.

 

Called “Matches Made in Heaven”, the black match box and its accompanying refined lighter, golden lighter case and ashtray with corrugated silhouette catches the eyeballs instantly. Considered the centerpiece of the collection, they encapsulate the spirit of modern maverick. With the defiant motto “Je m’en fous” (French slang for “I don’t give a damn”) printed around the edges of the match box, the rebellious energy is fully embodied.

Famous for its leather design, objects in leathers are omnipresent in the capsule. From hair bobbles to gloves and bracelets, the collection spruces its customers up with leatherware from head to fingertips. An adorable charm named “Happy Devil Key Ring” is also on the list. Made 100% by calfskin, the cute little devil adds a tincture of playfulness to the collection’s chic and sleek style. Other interesting pieces include a set of luxurious looking poker cards – printing all in black, silver and gold, a set of rock ‘n’ roll dice game set with gold-tone dice and leather game mat, a golden bottle opener in the shape of an angel’s wings – echoing the label’s eternal winged emblem, and the helmets created in collaboration with Marco Helmets, adorned also with wings motifs.

 

Much more than a one-time drop, the Voltaire Vice capsule collection is considered an extension of Zadig & Voltaire’s desire to the field of expression, while merging the art of lifestyle and fashion. All in all, it is an invitation to us all to celebrate the beauty in simplicity, and the extraordinary in the everyday.

 

The Voltaire Vice lifestyle capsule collection is now out worldwide on Zadig & Voltaire’s official website .


Text: Yves Tsou


Rabanne and Mytheresa Together for Their Second Capsule Collection

Rabanne and Mytheresa Together for Their Second Capsule Collection

With the inspiration of the special friendship between Paco Rabanne and Salvador Dalí


Dress inspired by Salvador Dalí’s painting The Meditative Rose (1958)

The luxury online retailer and the Parisian Fashion House are launching today their second capsule. The collection can count on iconic Rabanne’s marks: unconventional materials such as chain-link dresses and metal-mesh accessories, avant-garde symbols of the brand since the earliest collection in the 70s.

 

But the Creative Director Julien Dossena, inspired by very special friendship between Paco Rabanne and Salvador Dalí and thanks to Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, picked also two paintings from the spanish artist and brought them to a total new dimension, gently wrapping the bodies and moving on panel dresses and slight silhouettes.

To celebrate this launch, Rabanne and Mytheresa invited their guests for a two-days trip absorbed in Dalí surrealist universe, discovering first his Theatre & Museum in Figueres, followed by an intimate dinner at the renewed Michelin-starred Castell Peralada Restaurant. The guest then visited his private house in Port Lligat, an isolated fisherman’s hut he built and adjusted in over 40 years, to become his own little cave and studio, where he lived till 1982 when his beloved wife Gala passed away and still full of a multitude of objects and memoires belonging to both of them.

 

The exclusive Rabanne x Mytheresa capsule collection will be available globally on Mytheresa.com from today within a dedicated editorial story directed by Mytheresa Chief Creative Officer Julian Paul and shot by photographer Michele Di Dio, featuring model Ashanti Mildreth.

Dress inspired by Salvador Dalí’s painting The Shades of Night Descending (1931)

Port Lligat

Zinnia Kumar

Intimate dinner at Castell Peralada Restaurant


Text: Silvia Pescia


Becoming Landscape

Becoming Landscape

Reflecting the Relevance and Meaning of the Landscape Through Art Film

The second edition of the St. Moritz Art Film Festival (SMAFF), directed by Stefano Rabolli Pansera, has rung down its curtain on Sunday 3 September. Took place in the Swiss town of the same name, which has much in common with the theme of the competition: “Becoming Landscape”.

 

With the given title, competing artists and directors were therefore asked to reflect on the relevance and meaning of the landscape today. 57 films competing between digital experiments, historical perspectives, philosophical and anthropological reflections which revealed, as declared by the creative director himself, not only technical complexity but also depth and poetic sensitivity, often told in first person by the directors present in the room, mediated or interviewed by colleagues and critics.

Among these is Lydia Ourhamane’s work Tassili, which the director brought, a non-local crew to the desert between Algeria and Libya for the first time. They went on a physical and spiritual journey, which lasted two weeks, in a normally and voluntarily inhospitable nature, preserved from tourism and the risk of deterioration.

 

Moving camera on a long walk in a pristine valley with no human interaction and no conversation, the spectators observe and reflect, gets lost and finds themselves. They probably relive the same intense experience as those who worked on the production of this film, who declared, upon returning, of not knowing how to describe the emotions and the passage of time on that massive and mountainous plateau in the Sahara Desert.

Tassili by Lydia Ourhamane

Karnaval by Leah Gordon

Kanaval by Leah Gordon reflects on Haiti’s discovery attributed to Christopher Columbus, on the condition of slaves before and after the French colonization and on carnival as an integral part of the Haitian identity. The identity was once deprived from the Haitian before returning to their possession at a later time, retaining some elements of European culture, in search of a new post-revolution identity.

 

Matteo Parisini tells us about the universe of Luigi Ghirri with his work Infinito, the Italy of the 70s, consumerism, historical quotes and artistic contaminations. He starts from the architecture of his territories and ends at metaphysical and suspended landscapes. The sky as the great and final protagonist of his works: becoming landscape par excellence.

Last but not least is the experimentation in the digital field, together with the support of artificial intelligence and the use of elements borrowed from the gaming world. The visualization of subjects through the eyes of a soldier in “Call of Duty” mode, human simulation through the characters of “The Sims” and the possibility of witnessing the same scene from three different points of view thanks to a sophisticated control of cutting-edge technology as illustrated in Theta directed by Lawrence Lek and winner of the Best Film Award: an accident, a car went off the road and got stuck in the woods at night.

 

Three different active elements on the scene: the car, the object, still turned on and still in a nature that incorporates it. The human, having got out of the vehicle, an emotional and psychological subject, lives and waits helplessly for aid. A fox, a natural and external subject arrives, observes and moves around the car and the person, and then returns to the woods, to its nature habitat.

Theta by Lawrence Lek

Warp by Raffaella Naldi Rossano

Among the winners is also Warp by Raffaella Naldi Rossano, who snatched the Special Prize for Emerging Artist. According to the jury, “the film transports the viewer through various narratives and temporal planes, producing a surprising effect and an unconventional audiovisual panorama” and “offers a frame of reference for reflecting on contemporary issues linked to the Mediterranean, to the relationships with the preservation of the territory marine and ecosystems, as well as the consequences of climate change”

 

“Love at First Sight” is the name of the prize from the exclusive partner, Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, awarded to Laguna Negra by the Peruvian director Felipe Esparza Pérez. “Sophisticated blend of documentary and fiction. Its meditative rhythm produces a sense of sacredness, in line with the indigenous traditions explored in the film.”

 

The St. Moritz Art Film Festival, in its second edition, promises to become a regular event and we can only continue to support it.


Text: Silvia Pescia


The Statue of Ambiguity

Simple, structural and somewhat sophisticated. London-based designer Syuan Jhen Lin showcased her latest project “The Statue of Ambiguity” on August 3rd, 2023 at London’s Finsbury Park during the gig of hip-hop singer Refound and DJ Joy.

 

Born in Taiwan, Syuan Jhen Lin relocated to London to pursue her fashion studies at London College of Fashion after winning a design competition of wedding gowns. Hailing from Asia and living in Europe, her design is an eclectic fusion of the oriental and occidental culture. She specializes in pattern-making and garment construction, and is proficient at converting her avant-garde vision into enchanting storytelling.

Titled “The Statue of Ambiguity”, Syuan Jhen’s latest collection is a reflection on how society shapes our predetermined images of behaviors, or the so-called stereotypes, on others. These stereotypes tell us how to perceive a person by the way they look, the way they dress or the way they carry themselves; and oftentimes, lead to categorizing others in a somewhat polarizing opposite.

 

However, things are not always how they seem to be from the surface. We tend to forget that we are all independent units that have multiple façades. Our characteristics can be viewed differently by different people from different angles. The world is non-binary, there is actually a large area in between called the ambiguity. That state of ambiguity is the element which makes our stories more lively and multi-dimensional.

Inspired by the ambiguity in our personality, Syuan Jhen wants to manifest her theory by playing with the texture and pattern in her design. Considering clothing a soft sculpture attached to the human body, she blends the elements from both menswear and womenswear to create the unique silhouettes that best express her vision. Throughout this experimentation, she wants to challenge the duality of traditional garment and create something neutral for everyone.

 

The experiment seems pretty successful. The juxtaposition of different elements makes her design extremely interesting. Just like our multi-faceted personalities, the shape and form of her design are not one-dimensional. It seems to be a normal top from the side; however, it becomes an undulating structure while seeing it from the front. The same concept applies to the trousers and the hat, looking plain from the front while being a sculptural form from different angles.

Currently, Syuan Jhen is preparing for the launch of her own brand. With her past experience in bridal wear, evening gown and ready-to-wear design, she wants to use her garment to challenge the societal norms and promote a more inclusive gender perspective. “Fashion wields the power to influence ideas and disrupt established paradigms.” She said, believing this concept to be innovative and impactful enough to inspire transformation in our society. The future of our society is unknown, so is hers. But we believe that with these proactive visions, we could create a more inclusive, diverse and welcoming community for those who are in their state of ambiguity.


Photography: London Nanzi 倫敦男子日常 (@london.nanzhi)

Fashion: Syuan Jhen Lin (@syuan_style)

Models: Refound (@refound__), Joy Shin (@zzbluee)

Text: Yves Tsou


DAWEI: I Design, Because I Still Want To

Hailing from Beijing, Paris-based fashion designer Dawei Sun founded the eponymous fashion house DAWEI in 2016. Graduated from L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in 2005, Dawei Sun has interned, worked and creative directed in brands like John Galliano, Balenciaga and Cacharel before deciding launching his own label.

 

In occasion of the launch of his Resort 2024 Collection, CAP 74024 shared a lovely talk with Dawei Sun on his journey in the fashion world in the past 15 years, the story behind the foundation of his own label, and his philosophy of life and design.

Hi Dawei, how are you today?

I am good, thanks. Enjoying Paris before my regular travel to Beijing.

 

Are you currently based in Paris or in Beijing? 

Our studio is in Paris and we have an atelier in Beijing. Normally, I split my time between the two cities. But the pandemic has restricted my freedom of travel. Hence, I spent most of the past two years in Paris, and then after each fashion show I traveled back to China, where my family lives.

 

So how does the division of labor and the workflow of the brand go?

Most of the research, design and fabric collection take place in our studio in Paris; while sampling and final product inspection are done by our atelier in Beijing. We also have professional exterior teams handling our marketing, sales and public relations. We are a small but well-structured team.

portrait of DAWEI’s founder, Dawei Sun

DAWEI’s Pre-fall 2023 Collection

Would you like to share with us a bit of your background and what is the story behind the foundation of the brand?

I first moved to Paris in 2001 to study in L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (which has merged with Institut Français de la Mode in 2019). After my graduation in 2005, I started to intern and work in different brands until 2010, when I co-founded the brand Belle Ninon with my then business partner. A few seasons after the launch of our first collection, we were recruited by Cacharel as their creative directors. We stayed in Cacharel for a couple of years; during that time, we still designed a couple of mini collections for Bell Ninon in order to keep the brand alive.

 

However, designing for two brands and four seasonal collections were really exhausting. So, after our departure from Cacharel, my business partner decided to take a break from the fashion world. I realized that I couldn’t manage Belle Ninon’s more feminine design alone, so we shut down the brand. I also took a break for around two years, but my interest in fashion never faded. Considering that I still want to design in the style I like and to grow together with the team I’ve been working with for many years, I founded DAWEI in 2016, and this is where we are now.

 

It must take a certain amount of courage to restart everything from the scratch again.

Indeed. In fact, it was around the time when my first child was born. The birth of new life somehow rekindled my passion to fashion and encouraged me to start doing something that I’ve always wanted to do, so I decided to “give birth” to my own brand DAWEI.

 

What’s the biggest difference in between of designing for other brands and designing for your own brand? 

When we designed for other brands, we were trying our best to respect the style and requirements of the brand and design accordingly. By the time I started DAWEI, I was hoping to combine my preferences with my aesthetics, and to design from my own perspective. I think the biggest difference between them is the change of roles and the state of mind.

You have interned and worked in major fashion houses like Balenciaga and John Galliano before being appointed as the creative director of Cacharel. What have you learnt the most from these experiences that helped you to develop your own brand?

The most influential designers to the young designers of my generation are definitely John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. I was lucky to have the chance to learn alongside John Galliano. Learning from him has broadened my horizon because he was someone who has been exposed to many different cultures and has a wide range of interests in many things. Through the experience, I understood the essence of teamwork and acquired the skills to be a good designer. Whenever someone’s tenure at John Galliano ended, the team will tell that person: You are now a qualified fashion worker.

 

Also, top designers like John Galliano and Nicolas Ghesquière have their own ways and techniques when dealing with different problems in design. These might not be my usual methods, but they can serve as my reference when I encounter some specific or unexplored problems.

 

After creating your own label, the design is to stick more to your preference, aesthetics and originality. Where do you usually get your inspiration from?

A lot of my inspiration during the pandemic actually came from the movies I watched in lockdown. When we are allowed to leave our house, I get expired by the exhibitions I visited, or some contemporary architecture I stumbled upon. I like to explore what is happening at the moment, so some current events and trends could be my source of inspiration as well. Also, I love to go to nature. The colors I see in nature inspired me a lot on my use of color.

 

I sometimes enjoy seeking inspiration from the books I read. Even if it’s simply a sentence or a paragraph that has nothing to do with fashion, I could find a correlation between them and base my design on that.

 

How many seasons do you have every year?

We have four collections every year. Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter main lines, resort collection and pre-fall collection.

DAWEI’s Fall/Winter 2023 Collection

DAWEI’s Resort 2024 Collection

ince the beginning of DAWEI, you have done several collaborations with other independent designers and brands. What are the reasons behind these collaborations? What are the positive things that the collaborations brought to you and to the brand?

I’ve always been a guy full of curiosity. Working with brands from different disciplines allows me to explore these uncharted territories. Throughout the collaboration process, I had the opportunity to get an overview on how things work, delve into the parts that I was interested in and gain some expertise in the unknown fields. For me, every collaboration we have is a win-win situation for us and for our partner, and every process is an interesting learning experience.

 

In hindsight, do you think it is a right decision to found your own brand DAWEI?

It definitely is. Deep in my heart, I always knew that I would create my own brand at some point in my life, I just didn’t know when. After starting my own label, I started to realize that fashion design is not just about my aesthetics and personal preferences, it also a synergy with my client and the market. I have to also take care of my team and take their needs into account.

 

Many people view the pandemic as a crisis, but I see it as an opportunity to learn how to manage a fashion house better. The pandemic was a challenge to an independent designer like me, but it has also taught me to better control the budget and to meet KPIs. Overall, it reinforced my sense of responsibility.

 

What are the plans for you and for DAWEI in the near future?

After creating DAWEI, I start to transit the center of my life from work to family. In fact, since last year, 50 percent of my energy has been devoted to taking care of my two cats.

 

Yes, I was guessing that you love cats! Because even the cursor on your website is a cute cat-faced icon!

Yes, I am a cat person! And since both of my cats are quite old and sick, I spent a lot of time taking care of them. If their health situation is better, I think my life will return to normal. Also, one of my sons will be visiting me from China next week, so I will take some time off to show him around. I wish I could spend more time with my loved ones in the next few years!


Interviewed by Yves Tsou


Nervi: The Allure of the Night

Nervi

The Allure of the Night

Eliana

Joan

In the realm of fashion, where creativity knows no bounds, the Resort Collection 24 by Nervi emerges as a bold testament to the brand’s indomitable spirit. Set against the vibrant backdrop of the pulsating city, the collection seamlessly merges urban street style with an unwavering commitment to uncompromising elegance.

 

Out in May 2024, the fifteen looks of the resort collection unravels its myriad facets with an undercurrent of rock-inspired energy that reverberates through every thread. Valentina Nervi, a visionary designer with an independent soul, orchestrates a collection that transforms women into nocturnal landscapes. She gives each look a distinctive feminine name, accentuating the curves and silhouette with a masterful touch honed by her expertise in intimate apparel, evening wear, and couture. Just as a melodic symphony, the resort collection praises the charm and mystery of the night.

Virna

Rita

Designed for the confident, self-assured woman, the evening gowns in this collection serve as a vibrant expression of resolute individuality. Each piece is imbued with a commanding personality, poised to make an indelible mark wherever it graces. Meticulously crafted and adorned with exquisite details, these garments exude an air of sophistication and are enveloped in the finest fabrics, a testament to Nervi’s unwavering commitment to quality.

 

As Nervi navigates a transformative phase, the brand’s new image pays tribute to its history while elevating its collections to new heights. The distinct DNA remains intact – a fusion of fashion, a profound love for music, and an unyielding appreciation for the allure of the night. It is a period of metamorphosis where authenticity shines through, defining Nervi’s resolute path forward. With every stitch, every carefully curated detail, and every electrifying moment, the brand exudes an aura of authenticity that resonates long after the curtains fall. As day turns to night and fashion meets passion, Nervi’s legacy remains etched in the hearts of those who dare to embrace the allure of the extraordinary.

Adasequins


Text: Daniele Tancredi


Summer in Pink PP with Valentino x Mytheresa

Summer in Pink PP with Valentino x Mytheresa

An immersive Roman holiday in Pink PP celebrates the launch of Valentino x Mytheresa’s summer exclusive capsule

After a fickle weather in May with drastic temperature drop and heavier rainfall than usual, summer is finally back in Italy. Before the dog days and holiday season’s arrival, Mytheresa teamed up with the established fashion house Maison Valentino for a brilliant summer wardrobe proposal.

 

As one of the best-selling brands on Mytheresa, Maison Valentino is back for another collaboration with online luxury retailing tycoon and their longstanding partner Mytheresa. Switching from last year’s colorful summer escape mood, the latest capsule collection is a monochromic ode to the fashion house’s signature Pink PP color shade. Comprising maxi dress, kaftan, shorts and long skirts, the seven exclusive looks stay true to the house’s feminine and sophisticated aesthetic. Comfortable and fashionable, the feather and rose print adorn render a playful yet romantic vibe, perfect the definition of urban riviera.

Emma Brooks, Ikram Abdi, Chloe Lecareux, Jihoon Kim

Kathryn Newton

Intimate dinner at Pierluigi

To celebrate the launch of the collection, Maison Valentino and Mytheresa invited a group of talents, press and top clients to Rome for an exclusive summer experience. The guests were invited to a tour in the newly-opened private museum Spazio Musja for an in-depth exploration of the founder and entrepreneur Ovidio Jacorossi’s contemporary art collection, and a private visit to the Maison Valentino Archive discovering the timeless aesthetic of the prestigious designer Valentino Garavani and his eponymous fashion house. Guests in vibrant summer capsule collection wandered through Roma’s historic streets and corners, enjoying the eternal beauty of the mesmerizing Urbs Aeterna. The tour was consummated with a convivial aperitivo at Camponeschi, an intimate dinner at Pierluigi and a relaxing lunch at Dal Bolognese. Revel in fine dining, wine, art, luxury experience and high fashion, the guests enjoyed a pleasant and immersive sojourn under the Roman sun.

 

Launched globally on Mytheresa.com from May 5th from June 21st, 2023, the exclusive Valentino x Mytheresa summer capsule collection is ready to color your summer with vivacity, vibrancy, casualness and chic.


Text: Yves Tsou


Each Man Kills the Things He Loves

Each Man Kills The Things He Loves

SAINT LAURENT Spring Summer 24 Men’s Fashion Show in Berlin’s Neue Nationalgalerie

Meticulously crafted ensembles flawlessly blended with the venue, as delicate silhouettes seamlessly created strong looks. Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear show was an exceptional showcase of timeless yet cutting-edge ensembles. Presented at the architectural masterpiece, the Neue Nationalgalerie in Berlin, and under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the collection, titled “Each Man Kills the Things He Loves,” embraced an androgynous aesthetic while exuding sensuality.

 

Sophisticated, progressist, sexy and not afraid to show some shoulders is the Saint Laurent Man. While showing off his figure he struts confidently the runway and blurs the lines between masculinity and femininity. Showcasing figure-hugging silhouettes, the garments embody the essence of Saint Laurent, while recreating some of the mythic characters in Rainer Werner Fassbinder films, Querelle and Le Droit du Plus Fort.

The show is a harmonious balance of opposite elements. Feminine one-shoulder tops merge with masculine high-waisted pants, creating a captivating contrast. The ethereal delicacy of sheer chiffon fabric juxtaposes with the structured volume of tuxedo jackets, evoking a striking balance. Furthermore, the romantic charm of polka dot tops diverges from the audacious boldness of chunky-heeled boots. Altogether, the show was and opulent display of progressive values and subverted traditions.

 

Designed as an extension of the womenswear collection, the pieces draw clear inspiration from women’s silhouettes. The inclusion of high-collared shirts, tank tops with plunging décolletés, and sarongs elegantly tied around the neck add a captivating touch of sensuality. while meticulous, sharp tailoring and fluid volumes create a romantic and fresh feeling.

Exquisite textiles accentuated the opulent atmosphere of the collection. Featuring a diverse range from satin to patent leather, jersey, and mousseline, the different textures provided a visually captivating and sensory experience. Playfully adding to the allure, leopard spots adorned some of the patterns, while the iconic Saint Laurent black prevailed throughout the collection in a variety of shades.

 

The tailoring of the collection, characterized by broad shoulders and tapered legs, showcased Saint Laurent’s expertise, mastery of shapes, and bold fashion sensibility. Classic bow ties, traditionally associated with formalwear, received a fresh twist as they were presented in pristine white, adding a contemporary edge to this timeless accessory.

The choice of venue for the show added an extra layer of significance to the collection. designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe in 1968, the Neue Nationalgalerie boasts a steel roof that complements the collection’s sleek and contemporary aesthetic. Temporary insertions enhanced the space with a powerful light flooding the venue, turning it into a temple of light.

 

Vaccarello’s approach is known to be strong and radical. The result, a collection that exuded freshness, elegance, and intrepidness—a true ode to sensuality and androgynous chic.

www.ysl.com

Text: Carolina Benjumea


Ca'del Bosco Sculpture Award

Ca'del Bosco Sculpture Award

The FInest Combination Between Art and Wine

Located between the southern end of Lago d’Iseo and Brescia, Franciacorta is a hilly region famous for its eponymous sparkling wine. The high-quality sparkling wine shares the same production method as champaign, and has a very strict regulations on the definition of this world class sparking wine.

 

Born in the Franciacorta region, Ca’del Bosco is one of the most recognizable wineries producing Franciacorta sparkling wine. Listening to the reality and complexity of Nature, Ca’del Bosco believes in the protection of organic viticulture and invests in innovation, research and technology, integrating their knowledge in wine production with the potential of the earth. Their products include the finest Franciacorta sparkling wine, white wine and red wine. The pursuit of quality is in Ca’del Bosco’s identity, and the enhancement of art and culture is their belief.

Sharing a similar pursue of preserving the excellence, Ca’del Bosco teamed up with Venetian Heritage — international non-profit organization that safeguards and preserves the legacy the Republic of Venice’s artistic beauties — for the organization of the first edition of “Ca’del Bosco Sculpture Award”. It’s the first competition in Italy reserved for large outdoor sculptures made by artists under 40 years old. With the motto of “Restoring the past, building the future”, Ca’del Bosco wished to strengthen the bond that exists between the art and the company’s philosophy, and to sponsor infinite capability and imagination of the new artistic generation.

 

The competition is divided into several stages: between 21 May 2023 and 15 June 2023, the competition jury will select the artist to be invited to the competition; in May 2024 (estimated), the first three classified will be awarded; and finally in October 2024 (estimated), the winning work will be inaugurated. The winning works will be placed in the Art and Wine Gallery in Ca’del Bosco’s vineyards in Erbusco, and will become the property of Ca’ del Bosco.

 

In celebration of the opening and the introduction of the competition, Ca’del Bosco and Venetian Heritage invited a parterre of selected guests to Venice for a series of events full of art and culture. The guests indulged themselves in an anthem concert performed by a catholic choir inside the Basilica di San Marco. Thanks to the fund that Venetian Heritage raised, the historic monument Ambone dell’Epistola of the Basilica di San Marco was newly restored. The celebration ensued with a convivial dinner hosting under the moonlight of Venice, in the city’s first official casino Antico Ridotto della Serenissima. Ca’del Bosco unveiled the Sculpture Award in this gorgeously ornate banquet room, toasting for their achievements in art and culture with the finest wine.


Text: Yves Tsou