The Waiting Game

on Till_suit & shirt SARTORIA DE PAZ

on Kosmas_vest & shirt WOOYOUNGMI, skirt and tie stylist’s archive


suit & shirt SARTORIA DE PAZsandals PRADA

blazer MM6 MAISON MARGIELA, trousers 032c, loafers SEBAGO



t-shirt JIL SANDER, trousers stylist’s archive, cap & bandana vintage, sandals PRADA

Photography: Emil Levy (@emil_levy)

Fashion: Elena Luttichau (@elenaluttichaustyling)

Beauty: Marvin Glißmann (@marvin_glissmann)

Fashion Assistant: Monika Jauneikaite (@jauneikaite)

Models: Kosmas Schmidt (@kosmasleo) @Kult Models (@kultmodels), Tim Reimann (@tim.rm_) & Till Wenner (@till.wen) @M4 Models (@m4models)

Early Breakfast




suit PRADA

total look JIL SANDER

Photography: Daniel Antropik (@daniel.antropik)

Fashion & Art Direction: Jula Bieńkowska (@jula.bienkowska)

Make-up: Kamila Vay (@kamilavay) using Annabelle Minerals

Model: Marta Gawron (@zmartuzz) @Model Plus (@modelpluswarsaw)

Becoming Landscape

Becoming Landscape

Reflecting the Relevance and Meaning of the Landscape Through Art Film

The second edition of the St. Moritz Art Film Festival (SMAFF), directed by Stefano Rabolli Pansera, has rung down its curtain on Sunday 3 September. Took place in the Swiss town of the same name, which has much in common with the theme of the competition: “Becoming Landscape”.


With the given title, competing artists and directors were therefore asked to reflect on the relevance and meaning of the landscape today. 57 films competing between digital experiments, historical perspectives, philosophical and anthropological reflections which revealed, as declared by the creative director himself, not only technical complexity but also depth and poetic sensitivity, often told in first person by the directors present in the room, mediated or interviewed by colleagues and critics.

Among these is Lydia Ourhamane’s work Tassili, which the director brought, a non-local crew to the desert between Algeria and Libya for the first time. They went on a physical and spiritual journey, which lasted two weeks, in a normally and voluntarily inhospitable nature, preserved from tourism and the risk of deterioration.


Moving camera on a long walk in a pristine valley with no human interaction and no conversation, the spectators observe and reflect, gets lost and finds themselves. They probably relive the same intense experience as those who worked on the production of this film, who declared, upon returning, of not knowing how to describe the emotions and the passage of time on that massive and mountainous plateau in the Sahara Desert.

Tassili by Lydia Ourhamane

Karnaval by Leah Gordon

Kanaval by Leah Gordon reflects on Haiti’s discovery attributed to Christopher Columbus, on the condition of slaves before and after the French colonization and on carnival as an integral part of the Haitian identity. The identity was once deprived from the Haitian before returning to their possession at a later time, retaining some elements of European culture, in search of a new post-revolution identity.


Matteo Parisini tells us about the universe of Luigi Ghirri with his work Infinito, the Italy of the 70s, consumerism, historical quotes and artistic contaminations. He starts from the architecture of his territories and ends at metaphysical and suspended landscapes. The sky as the great and final protagonist of his works: becoming landscape par excellence.

Last but not least is the experimentation in the digital field, together with the support of artificial intelligence and the use of elements borrowed from the gaming world. The visualization of subjects through the eyes of a soldier in “Call of Duty” mode, human simulation through the characters of “The Sims” and the possibility of witnessing the same scene from three different points of view thanks to a sophisticated control of cutting-edge technology as illustrated in Theta directed by Lawrence Lek and winner of the Best Film Award: an accident, a car went off the road and got stuck in the woods at night.


Three different active elements on the scene: the car, the object, still turned on and still in a nature that incorporates it. The human, having got out of the vehicle, an emotional and psychological subject, lives and waits helplessly for aid. A fox, a natural and external subject arrives, observes and moves around the car and the person, and then returns to the woods, to its nature habitat.

Theta by Lawrence Lek

Warp by Raffaella Naldi Rossano

Among the winners is also Warp by Raffaella Naldi Rossano, who snatched the Special Prize for Emerging Artist. According to the jury, “the film transports the viewer through various narratives and temporal planes, producing a surprising effect and an unconventional audiovisual panorama” and “offers a frame of reference for reflecting on contemporary issues linked to the Mediterranean, to the relationships with the preservation of the territory marine and ecosystems, as well as the consequences of climate change”


“Love at First Sight” is the name of the prize from the exclusive partner, Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, awarded to Laguna Negra by the Peruvian director Felipe Esparza Pérez. “Sophisticated blend of documentary and fiction. Its meditative rhythm produces a sense of sacredness, in line with the indigenous traditions explored in the film.”


The St. Moritz Art Film Festival, in its second edition, promises to become a regular event and we can only continue to support it.

Text: Silvia Pescia

Dans l'Eau d'Août

À Bord du Bateau

La Bagnoire

Photography: Valeria Bianco (@eriaclara)

Model: Paolo

Like Brothers

denim shorts LEVI’S, belt CHRISTOPHER ROSS

on Joel_jeans BOSS

on Joel_leather jacket GIANFRANCO FERRÉ, turtleneck PAUL SMITH, shorts THE KOOPLES

on Leo_bomber jacket vintage, turtleneck & skirt with belt PRADA

on Joel_shirt COMME des GARÇONS, tie vintage, shorts LEVI’S, boots CALVIN KLEIN

on Leo_shirt POLO RALPH LAUREN, boots KENZO


on Leo_shirt vintage CHRISTIAN DIOR, blazer GUCCI, pants ZEGNA, socks INTIMISSIMI, shoes MARSÈLL

on Joel_tank top CALVIN KLEIN, jeanss BOSS

Photography: Ferran Casanova (@ferran_casanova)

Fashion: Cristian Betancurt (@the_man_in_beta)

Skincare: Arolab Organic (@arolaborganic)

Models: Joel Culell (@joelculell_) @Sight Management Studio (@sightmanagement), Leo White (@_leo.white) @Miah Management (@miah_management)


Talent: Kesha(@iiswhoiis)
Photography: Jacques Burga (@jacquesburga)
Creative Director: Vicen Akina (@vicenakina)
Fashion: Nausheen Shah (@nausheenshah)
Hair: Owen Gould (@owengould)
Makeup: Natalie Ventola (@nattiventi)
Nails: Miho Okawara (@mihonails)
Producer & Set Design: Christopher E Hughes (@_chrishughes)
Retouch: Misha Chubun (@misha.chubun)
Lighting & Tech: Zach Arquilevich (@zacharquilevich)
Photo Assistant: Milo Fontanez (@milofontanez), Jaden Torres (@jadentorresss)
Styling Assistants: Grace Taylor, Angie Shah
Production Assistant: Skyler Stanley (@skylerwstanley)
Special thanks to Redcar Properties

Interview by Valentina Hites

Hi Kesha, may we start the interview by asking you what does Gag Order mean to you? 

Sure! Gag Order was a reference to the inability to speak my truth without a constant debilitating fear of judgement, both personally and publicly. The emotions were ones I suppressed to the best of my ability for as long as I could, and this album was the reckoning of my spirit. The surrender to the anger, the vulnerability and the absolute truth, as ugly as it can be. The repercussions of my story were so great that I felt like my divine gift has been in a stranglehold. Feeling stuck is an emotion that I hope very few people can relate to, yet I know many people can because we are all humans, and we all have some semblance of a shared experience in life. I hope me sharing myself can make someone out there not feel as isolated in their uncomfortable emotions. We’re never really alone in anything.


I love how unique and different ‘Only Love Can Save Us Now’ from everything you’ve done before! Was that the first time you’ve worked with Vincent Haycock and who came up with the concept for the music video?

Thank you! I really wanted it sonically to be a bridge between aggressive expression and euphoria. The push and pull of control and surrender. Lyrically “Only Love” is a back and forth, much like the voices have been in my head, between control and the release of control. Working with Vince was so great, having this team of great men around me that listened to me intently and helped me to relate my emotions visually felt very healing and powerful. My team made me feel like the goddess I am. I wanted the voyeuristic nature of my life to be portrayed in the video, which I think we really captured.


You are about to embark on a tour for Gag Order, what has been your most exciting performance venue ever? Any many most fun memories from touring? 

All of my tour memories are my favorite. Every night is so unique and full of adventure that it keeps me so excited. I never know what the night is going to hold for me. and I still get nervous for every show. My tongue gets itchy when I get nervous, and I’m grateful that every show I’ve ever played, I get that feeling, because it means I care so much. I love connecting to my fans and seeing how they relate to my music, and especially after the pandemic I’m more grateful than ever to be able to play my music in person to my Animals. I’ve missed them. Recently, I played the Taylor Hawkins tribute show at Wembley and I remember after I played my song, sitting on the side of the stage watching these music legends all honoring Taylor. It was so heart melting. I was watching Paul McCartney and ended up giving him a wave with my feet and he waved back. It was a weird and very special moment.


You have said that you are feeling so much more connected to your true, authentic self and are much more comfortable in your own skin, what would you say are some common misconceptions about spirituality, reflection and self-love?

I think the idea that healing is easy or pleasant is a huge misconception. The disassembling of the ego is a scary and the questioning of everything you think you know is very destabilizing. Self-love also is something that really requires discipline in my experience. Self-love starts with myself, but the trusting of my gut and having boundaries in my decisions has been very imperfect, yet the most rewarding work I’ve ever done.


What was the best part of working with Rick Rubin? Did he teach you any good chants or meditations?

Every element if working with Rick has been beyond. I really felt seen and supported. I did not feel like a product to be shaped, molded and sold. I felt human. He taught me so much; we would meditate before we would work. I really took away that I get to make music; I don’t have to. I also watched him have excellent work/life boundaries, which is something I have always had trouble with. I saw someone make amazing music and still make time for himself and his family.  He was an incredible man to learn from him.


Nowadays people can have a hit go viral and become famous without any support from a label. What are your thoughts about this phenomenon?

I think the world we live in is terrifying and magical. I hope that everyone on this earth experiences the success of their wildest dreams, because only after I felt like I had fulfilled mine did I realize that the external validation was not actually filling the void I had inside of me. That being said, I find it so exciting that anyone and everyone can find their voice and have the same opportunity as someone with the support of a record label. It’s fascinating and electric.


What are your thoughts of the way the music industry has changed over the last 10 years? 

I believe the world is getting more connected. There are less boundaries, which is amazing and also dangerous. It’s exciting to have success be so available to anyone and everyone, and I like to balance my screen time with time in nature.


Would you ever want to write a theme song for a movie and if so what kind of a movie?

A million percent yes! I would love to write a theme song for a spy movie or a bad guy theme song. I want to make the “bad guy slow motion rising from the ashes” song. Or an animated animal cartoon theme song about a singing whale.


Would you ever judge a singing competition? What do you think about those kinds of shows and the way they find and produce talent? 

I would love to be a part of a judge or mentor panel. I always wish I had a big sister in this business, so I absolutely would love to help mentor other young artists navigate this world.


Are there any words of advice or encouragement you’d like to share with young upcoming artists who are dealing with the pressures and expectations of an industry that’s increasingly competitive and judgmental. 

The world will be chaos around you. Let it be. Find grounding and peace in who you are and let it all be madness.  Enjoy the madness! But always remember who you are. Return to it again and again.


Lastly, if you only have 10 minutes to workout, what is your go-to exercise? 

My favorite practice is yoga and hiking, but if I have 10 minutes, I may do a few burpees and call it a day.



hat Selin Binici for Dang NHAN HOANG, top JIL SANDER

dress BERNADETTE, tights WOLFORD, sneakers RAF SIMONS


cardigan MARNI, tights FALKE


Photography: Ben Kern (@benkero)

Styling & Art Direction: Moritz Lindert (@moritzlindert)

Hair & Make-up: Jamal Musa (@jamal.musa_) using ORIBE, GHB and CHANEL

Model: Folke (@folke.mtt) @ SYSTEM Agency (@systemagency)

End of Summer Blues

knit vintage GIANFRANCO FERRÉ, crystal top FRANCES O

tank top FILIPPA K, skirt MIU MIU, earrings MISHO, heels BY FAR



dress CÉLINE BRETON, underdress MILÒ MARIA, sunglasses OFF-WHITE, heels BY FAR

t-shirt GANNI, choker CHRISTIAN DIOR

cuff as ring DEFAIENCE

shirt & skirt TALIA BYRE, earrings DEFAIENCE, heels vintage PRADA

shirt, skirt & bracelet TALIA BYRE, heels BY FAR

bracelet DEFAIENCE, ring MISHO

necklace MISHO



Photography: Oda Eide (@oda.eide)
Fashion: Rachel Simone (@rachelsimone__)
Make-up: Andrea Severinosailis (@andreaseverinosailis)
Hair Giuseppe Cabizza (@giuseppecabizza
Hair Assistant: Selene Rubattu (@selenerubattu)
Model: Nadia (@nadia__khaya)

The Statue of Ambiguity

Simple, structural and somewhat sophisticated. London-based designer Syuan Jhen Lin showcased her latest project “The Statue of Ambiguity” on August 3rd, 2023 at London’s Finsbury Park during the gig of hip-hop singer Refound and DJ Joy.


Born in Taiwan, Syuan Jhen Lin relocated to London to pursue her fashion studies at London College of Fashion after winning a design competition of wedding gowns. Hailing from Asia and living in Europe, her design is an eclectic fusion of the oriental and occidental culture. She specializes in pattern-making and garment construction, and is proficient at converting her avant-garde vision into enchanting storytelling.

Titled “The Statue of Ambiguity”, Syuan Jhen’s latest collection is a reflection on how society shapes our predetermined images of behaviors, or the so-called stereotypes, on others. These stereotypes tell us how to perceive a person by the way they look, the way they dress or the way they carry themselves; and oftentimes, lead to categorizing others in a somewhat polarizing opposite.


However, things are not always how they seem to be from the surface. We tend to forget that we are all independent units that have multiple façades. Our characteristics can be viewed differently by different people from different angles. The world is non-binary, there is actually a large area in between called the ambiguity. That state of ambiguity is the element which makes our stories more lively and multi-dimensional.

Inspired by the ambiguity in our personality, Syuan Jhen wants to manifest her theory by playing with the texture and pattern in her design. Considering clothing a soft sculpture attached to the human body, she blends the elements from both menswear and womenswear to create the unique silhouettes that best express her vision. Throughout this experimentation, she wants to challenge the duality of traditional garment and create something neutral for everyone.


The experiment seems pretty successful. The juxtaposition of different elements makes her design extremely interesting. Just like our multi-faceted personalities, the shape and form of her design are not one-dimensional. It seems to be a normal top from the side; however, it becomes an undulating structure while seeing it from the front. The same concept applies to the trousers and the hat, looking plain from the front while being a sculptural form from different angles.

Currently, Syuan Jhen is preparing for the launch of her own brand. With her past experience in bridal wear, evening gown and ready-to-wear design, she wants to use her garment to challenge the societal norms and promote a more inclusive gender perspective. “Fashion wields the power to influence ideas and disrupt established paradigms.” She said, believing this concept to be innovative and impactful enough to inspire transformation in our society. The future of our society is unknown, so is hers. But we believe that with these proactive visions, we could create a more inclusive, diverse and welcoming community for those who are in their state of ambiguity.

Photography: London Nanzi 倫敦男子日常 (@london.nanzhi)

Fashion: Syuan Jhen Lin (@syuan_style)

Models: Refound (@refound__), Joy Shin (@zzbluee)

Text: Yves Tsou

DAWEI: I Design, Because I Still Want To

Hailing from Beijing, Paris-based fashion designer Dawei Sun founded the eponymous fashion house DAWEI in 2016. Graduated from L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in 2005, Dawei Sun has interned, worked and creative directed in brands like John Galliano, Balenciaga and Cacharel before deciding launching his own label.


In occasion of the launch of his Resort 2024 Collection, CAP 74024 shared a lovely talk with Dawei Sun on his journey in the fashion world in the past 15 years, the story behind the foundation of his own label, and his philosophy of life and design.

Hi Dawei, how are you today?

I am good, thanks. Enjoying Paris before my regular travel to Beijing.


Are you currently based in Paris or in Beijing? 

Our studio is in Paris and we have an atelier in Beijing. Normally, I split my time between the two cities. But the pandemic has restricted my freedom of travel. Hence, I spent most of the past two years in Paris, and then after each fashion show I traveled back to China, where my family lives.


So how does the division of labor and the workflow of the brand go?

Most of the research, design and fabric collection take place in our studio in Paris; while sampling and final product inspection are done by our atelier in Beijing. We also have professional exterior teams handling our marketing, sales and public relations. We are a small but well-structured team.

portrait of DAWEI’s founder, Dawei Sun

DAWEI’s Pre-fall 2023 Collection

Would you like to share with us a bit of your background and what is the story behind the foundation of the brand?

I first moved to Paris in 2001 to study in L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (which has merged with Institut Français de la Mode in 2019). After my graduation in 2005, I started to intern and work in different brands until 2010, when I co-founded the brand Belle Ninon with my then business partner. A few seasons after the launch of our first collection, we were recruited by Cacharel as their creative directors. We stayed in Cacharel for a couple of years; during that time, we still designed a couple of mini collections for Bell Ninon in order to keep the brand alive.


However, designing for two brands and four seasonal collections were really exhausting. So, after our departure from Cacharel, my business partner decided to take a break from the fashion world. I realized that I couldn’t manage Belle Ninon’s more feminine design alone, so we shut down the brand. I also took a break for around two years, but my interest in fashion never faded. Considering that I still want to design in the style I like and to grow together with the team I’ve been working with for many years, I founded DAWEI in 2016, and this is where we are now.


It must take a certain amount of courage to restart everything from the scratch again.

Indeed. In fact, it was around the time when my first child was born. The birth of new life somehow rekindled my passion to fashion and encouraged me to start doing something that I’ve always wanted to do, so I decided to “give birth” to my own brand DAWEI.


What’s the biggest difference in between of designing for other brands and designing for your own brand? 

When we designed for other brands, we were trying our best to respect the style and requirements of the brand and design accordingly. By the time I started DAWEI, I was hoping to combine my preferences with my aesthetics, and to design from my own perspective. I think the biggest difference between them is the change of roles and the state of mind.

You have interned and worked in major fashion houses like Balenciaga and John Galliano before being appointed as the creative director of Cacharel. What have you learnt the most from these experiences that helped you to develop your own brand?

The most influential designers to the young designers of my generation are definitely John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. I was lucky to have the chance to learn alongside John Galliano. Learning from him has broadened my horizon because he was someone who has been exposed to many different cultures and has a wide range of interests in many things. Through the experience, I understood the essence of teamwork and acquired the skills to be a good designer. Whenever someone’s tenure at John Galliano ended, the team will tell that person: You are now a qualified fashion worker.


Also, top designers like John Galliano and Nicolas Ghesquière have their own ways and techniques when dealing with different problems in design. These might not be my usual methods, but they can serve as my reference when I encounter some specific or unexplored problems.


After creating your own label, the design is to stick more to your preference, aesthetics and originality. Where do you usually get your inspiration from?

A lot of my inspiration during the pandemic actually came from the movies I watched in lockdown. When we are allowed to leave our house, I get expired by the exhibitions I visited, or some contemporary architecture I stumbled upon. I like to explore what is happening at the moment, so some current events and trends could be my source of inspiration as well. Also, I love to go to nature. The colors I see in nature inspired me a lot on my use of color.


I sometimes enjoy seeking inspiration from the books I read. Even if it’s simply a sentence or a paragraph that has nothing to do with fashion, I could find a correlation between them and base my design on that.


How many seasons do you have every year?

We have four collections every year. Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter main lines, resort collection and pre-fall collection.

DAWEI’s Fall/Winter 2023 Collection

DAWEI’s Resort 2024 Collection

ince the beginning of DAWEI, you have done several collaborations with other independent designers and brands. What are the reasons behind these collaborations? What are the positive things that the collaborations brought to you and to the brand?

I’ve always been a guy full of curiosity. Working with brands from different disciplines allows me to explore these uncharted territories. Throughout the collaboration process, I had the opportunity to get an overview on how things work, delve into the parts that I was interested in and gain some expertise in the unknown fields. For me, every collaboration we have is a win-win situation for us and for our partner, and every process is an interesting learning experience.


In hindsight, do you think it is a right decision to found your own brand DAWEI?

It definitely is. Deep in my heart, I always knew that I would create my own brand at some point in my life, I just didn’t know when. After starting my own label, I started to realize that fashion design is not just about my aesthetics and personal preferences, it also a synergy with my client and the market. I have to also take care of my team and take their needs into account.


Many people view the pandemic as a crisis, but I see it as an opportunity to learn how to manage a fashion house better. The pandemic was a challenge to an independent designer like me, but it has also taught me to better control the budget and to meet KPIs. Overall, it reinforced my sense of responsibility.


What are the plans for you and for DAWEI in the near future?

After creating DAWEI, I start to transit the center of my life from work to family. In fact, since last year, 50 percent of my energy has been devoted to taking care of my two cats.


Yes, I was guessing that you love cats! Because even the cursor on your website is a cute cat-faced icon!

Yes, I am a cat person! And since both of my cats are quite old and sick, I spent a lot of time taking care of them. If their health situation is better, I think my life will return to normal. Also, one of my sons will be visiting me from China next week, so I will take some time off to show him around. I wish I could spend more time with my loved ones in the next few years!

Interviewed by Yves Tsou